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KLydesdale wrote:Sortaslow wrote:KLydesdale wrote:Sortaslow wrote:c0nsumer wrote:To clean my chain I soak it in a citrus-based degreaser, rinse with hot water, then toss it in the oven while preheating. Once it's over ~212F I let it cool then apply either ProLink or Voyager. Works VERY well.
Sounds delicious! I think I'll try marinating in the Chianti first and then baking. Pepper? Salt?
Too involved for me. Wipe with rag, apply t9 and done. Since using t9 my chain never gets gunked enough to merit ritualistic cleaning methods.
Screw all of this. I'm going belt drive.
I find it somewhat interesting that you're concerned about left-over degreaser forming a slurry with lube applied to a chain after cleaning yet have no problems applying lube to a dirty chain. What kind of slurry do you think that T9 forms with the dirt that's already in the chain?
I've never had that problem as the chain is pretty clean when using t9. I think driving thin viscous cleaners into the chain is not the way to go. Like i said above, I'm not an engineer so it's only opinion. I've never had early chain failures, but others haven't either with their methods. So I'd say many methods work well.
Now this year i am having issues with filthy chains. Replaced all chains on my bikes and left on the factory lube. Never AGAIN! These will need to be degreased in solvent. I just can't get them to stop collecting dirt. People that are for factory lube can keep it. Have fun with that.
Thin viscous cleaner? That's kind of oxymoronic.
So you never blast sand onto your chain? Or splash mud on it? And no black residue appears when you apply fresh T9? The micro-grit that gets ground into the chain while riding is what I'm talking about here. You can wipe off the outside of the chain all you want but the stuff that's inside the chain is what cause wear.
I've been using Boeshield T9 for quite a few years now. While I like it, it's not magic or anything... it's just basically a waxy coating that dirt does not stick to as much as with a oil or wet lube. But my chains still get grit in them. You may not be an engineer but the few studies done by ones that I've come across over the years that have looked at the effect of different lubes on chain life have come to basically one conclusion. If you want maximum chain life, don't add lube to a chain that has dirt in it. That's why I like to clean them in degreaser before applying fresh lube if possible. I'm not fussy about it though because sometimes I just don't have time to do a complete cleaning. My time is worth more than a few extra miles on a $20 chain.
It's not oxymoronic when you consider that unless you heat the chain/rinse out the degreaser fully then you will have degreaser in your chain while it is in use until the lube pushes out the degreaser and takes over-if it ever does 100%.
Black residue can also be the worn metal from the chain and chain rings. It's not just dirt. Also some theories hold that modern chain design wicks in lube and pushes it out from the side plates thus in essence flushing the chain.
So really I only wipe a chain off before lubing. I do clean it, but degreasing I don't bother with unless I've previously left on factory lube or used an oily lube in a pinch.
If you're using t9 correctly and wiping the chain off before riding, then it shouldn't collect that much dirt.
And yeah, you can pick up 970s for $15 so I just don't like wasting too much time or money for cleaners on chains anymore.
You're prodding me to really think about this. I hope I don't get convinced enough to start degreasing again!
This is making me super interested in taking a chain right off my bike during different states ( dry, wet, muddy, lubed, lubed dirty, lubed clean, lubed plus 100 miles clean and dirty, wax lube, oil lube) and breaking it open to examine the grit in the plates, rollers and pins. I'm too lazy in reality though. So many test combos...
But, if you see me in the trail with 27 quick links on my chain you know what happened!
*beep* insomnia.......