Chain Keeper Recommendation for 1x9?

[cjn1014]

I'm running a medium cage Shimano XT RD, as well.

[300hp]

I ran a 1x and used prolink for two seasons with no ill effects, fwiw. I have a custom made piece right now that would be right up your alley, it weighs 34g, is milled out of aluminum, and works with a bashguard. It is superior in function to the 1x and jump stop, both of which I have run for long periods. The adjustable chain stopper slides down like an upside down L and keeps your chain from jumping over the top, and the bashguard keeps it on teh other side. Fully adjustable and the chain keeper section is machined out of delrin for quiet use and long life. PM me if you want more info or pictures, a few are available.

[AllMountin']

The OP doesn't strike me as one to be tough on equipment. Anyone considering running an MRP(no need for bash) is sure to do just fine with a bash/N-gear combo. Frankly, it is overkill, but it works and is cheap. I would probably run a 1x style chain keeper if I didn't need a bash. I love the clean look of it.

For others: I run a 36T Salsa Tooth Fairy with a jump stop. I do have issues with drops, but I am stupid hard on my equipment. The chain manages to make it through the gap between the chainring and jump stop. The issue is that you have to leave enough gap to not rub in 1st gear. I presume chainring deflection allows the gap to spread enough under load to get the chain through. Most of the time it works fine.

Ideally, I'd run a Bashwich, but the bash options I was looking at weren't available for a 36T on the inside. There's not much room there between the chainring and the chainstay.

[c0nsumer]

The OP doesn't strike me as one to be tough on equipment. Anyone considering running an MRP(no need for bash) is sure to do just fine with a bash/N-gear combo. Frankly, it is overkill, but it works and is cheap. I would probably run a 1x style chain keeper if I didn't need a bash. I love the clean look of it.

Yep, I am pretty easy on gear... I try to not bash it around at all and only have the tires contacting the ground.

I like the look of the MRP as well, but I'd have to remove the ugly logo from the outside. That'd be easy enough.

Looks like I'm going to be able to set this whole 1x9 setup for about $50 beyond what I've already got laying around the house by using the N-Stop. I think this'll be good. It'll also be super-easy to go back to single speed too, which should be nice.

[barroo]

I've got a MRP if you would like to try it. It is BB mount.

[KLydesdale]

For others: I run a 36T Salsa Tooth Fairy with a jump stop. I do have issues with drops, but I am stupid hard on my equipment. The chain manages to make it through the gap between the chainring and jump stop. The issue is that you have to leave enough gap to not rub in 1st gear. I presume chainring deflection allows the gap to spread enough under load to get the chain through. Most of the time it works fine.
.

I once ran N-gear jump stops on a couple of bikes on which I had problems with the chain dropping onto the BB with a three ring crank setup. But I stopped using them because they caused more problems then they cured. In really bumpy conditions, the chain would drop off and get forced past the jump stop. I don't think it was the chainring that was deflecting but rather the jump stop itself - it's not really all that robust (at least mine aren't). Trouble is, once the chain was forced past it, it was very difficult to get it out without loosening the jumpstop. Those jump stops are now in my parts bins somewhere.

[Paul Brown]

Lack of top protection is the issue with the JumpStop and bashring setup. Unless you ride like a little Nancy Girl or stick to ILRA the chain will eventually loop up from the bottom (on any real terrain) and throw itself either to the outboard side or worse to the inboard where it will grab the Jumpstop and if you happen to continue your pedal stroke even for a 1/4 turn you'll have a real mess on your hands. I have been running 1x since I saw JHK's prototype setup at Iceman 5 years ago. An old modified front derailleur works as well.

[mtbfree]

I just recently converted to 1x9. I liked the look of the MRP 1x, but wanted something a little more robust without going to a full guide+bash setup. I ended up getting an MRP Lopes SL guide (basically the same as the 1x, but it has a lower roller as well for better protection from chain-slap and derailment). Not only is there almost no way the chain is ever going to bounce off the front ring, but my drive train is nearly silent, even over some rough/choppy terrain.

[johnboy]

I just recently converted to 1x9. I liked the look of the MRP 1x, but wanted something a little more robust without going to a full guide+bash setup. I ended up getting an MRP Lopes SL guide (basically the same as the 1x, but it has a lower roller as well for better protection from chain-slap and derailment). Not only is there almost no way the chain is ever going to bounce off the front ring, but my drive train is nearly silent, even over some rough/choppy terrain.

what chain lube do you use?
I'm getting ready to run the same setup but being polycarbonate I'm bummed I can't use Teflon lube. seems like wax lubes attract dirt buildup.

[LuckyCharm4x4]

I would probably run a 1x style chain keeper if I didn't need a bash. I love the clean look of it.

+1, I love the look, this is what I would do!

[mtbfree]

I just recently converted to 1x9. I liked the look of the MRP 1x, but wanted something a little more robust without going to a full guide+bash setup. I ended up getting an MRP Lopes SL guide (basically the same as the 1x, but it has a lower roller as well for better protection from chain-slap and derailment). Not only is there almost no way the chain is ever going to bounce off the front ring, but my drive train is nearly silent, even over some rough/choppy terrain.

what chain lube do you use?
I'm getting ready to run the same setup but being polycarbonate I'm bummed I can't use Teflon lube. seems like wax lubes attract dirt buildup.

I've actually found that wax lubes keep the chain fairly clean. It's the wax itself that usually builds up. Hasn't been an issue for me, just have to wipe down the chain every once in a while. I use Pedros Ice Wax 2.0. MRP doesn't show it on the lube compatibility list, but I emailed MRP directly and they said it won't hurt the guide.

[johnboy]

I just recently converted to 1x9. I liked the look of the MRP 1x, but wanted something a little more robust without going to a full guide+bash setup. I ended up getting an MRP Lopes SL guide (basically the same as the 1x, but it has a lower roller as well for better protection from chain-slap and derailment). Not only is there almost no way the chain is ever going to bounce off the front ring, but my drive train is nearly silent, even over some rough/choppy terrain.

what chain lube do you use?
I'm getting ready to run the same setup but being polycarbonate I'm bummed I can't use Teflon lube. seems like wax lubes attract dirt buildup.

I've actually found that wax lubes keep the chain fairly clean. It's the wax itself that usually builds up. Hasn't been an issue for me, just have to wipe down the chain every once in a while. I use Pedros Ice Wax 2.0. MRP doesn't show it on the lube compatibility list, but I emailed MRP directly and they said it won't hurt the guide.

good to know.. thanks, I'm gonna give that stuff a try.