THRU AXLEs ?

[SLOWWRYDE]

So, Ive narrowed it down to a couple different suspension forks I plan on buying for my bike. I see all the rage these days is 15mm or 20mm thru axles. My question is...do I have to buy a new front hub to accomidate the thru axle? I plan on dealing with my local bike shop on all of this (thats how LBS's stay in business), but I thought I could get a quick answer here to satisfy my couriosity till I can get to the LBS. Thanks

[jake]

Depends on what hubs you are running some are easily convertible, others will require you purchasing a new one.

[iamkickstand]

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Depends on what you have. Probably yes.

[Scotty]

Stan's hubs can be converted. they make a conversion kit, which I think only costs about $15.

most other hub brands cannot be converted. My suggestion is that if you're riding XC and not doing any big drops (and especially if you're just riding a hard tail on Michigan trails), stick to a fork with QR and upgrade both front and back to thru axle the next time you buy a new bike.

[Loren]

Couple more data points -

I9 hubs come with adapter ends for different axles.
There are conversion kits for several DT-Swiss hubs for different axles.

[iamkickstand]

Stan's hubs can be converted. they make a conversion kit, which I think only costs about $15.

most other hub brands cannot be converted. My suggestion is that if you're riding XC and not doing any big drops (and especially if you're just riding a hard tail on Michigan trails), stick to a fork with QR and upgrade both front and back to thru axle the next time you buy a new bike.

Why suggest sticking with qr?

I prefer thru axle even on Xc bikes.

[Doc_d]

Stan's hubs can be converted. they make a conversion kit, which I think only costs about $15.

most other hub brands cannot be converted. My suggestion is that if you're riding XC and not doing any big drops (and especially if you're just riding a hard tail on Michigan trails), stick to a fork with QR and upgrade both front and back to thru axle the next time you buy a new bike.

Why suggest sticking with qr?

I prefer thru axle even on Xc bikes.

I've never had an issue with a QR. What does a thru-axle buy me? Is it cheaper? Is it lighter? Is it easier to remove/replace the wheel?

[iamkickstand]

Stiffer, more responsive, more durable/stronger, no chance of misalignment when putting wheels on and off. Easier? I dunno, about the same, faster? Again, probably similar.

Not sure on weight, I don't weigh my bike parts.

[ColorVoyeur]

I can't imagine leaning my bike down in berms as hard as I do with a qr. The difference in stiffness for larger or more aggressive riders is a huge benefit.
Toughness is always my first priority with parts, and 20mm fits that bill well.

[iamkickstand]

I can't imagine leaning my bike down in berms as hard as I do with a qr. The difference in stiffness for larger or more aggressive riders is a huge benefit.
Toughness is always my first priority with parts, and 20mm fits that bill well.

But can I use one and stay under the 23lb weight limit for weekend warrior Xc riding?

[irishpitbull]

Stan's hubs can be converted. they make a conversion kit, which I think only costs about $15.

most other hub brands cannot be converted. My suggestion is that if you're riding XC and not doing any big drops (and especially if you're just riding a hard tail on Michigan trails), stick to a fork with QR and upgrade both front and back to thru axle the next time you buy a new bike.

Why suggest sticking with qr?

I prefer thru axle even on Xc bikes.

I've never had an issue with a QR. What does a thru-axle buy me? Is it cheaper? Is it lighter? Is it easier to remove/replace the wheel?

My TI 15mm and QR axles weigh virtually the same. Its not rotating mass so the 5-10grams your saving isn't much compared to the benefits you get from a TA. I'm about 175 pounds and notice huge difference from thru axle to qr bikes regarding handling and flex.

Also thru axles are threaded so there is really no way to but your wheel on *beep* to one side or another like you can do with qr. I use 15mm Thru axles and my bike weighs in 21 pounds. My other bike has thru front and back with 5 inches of travel and weighs in at 25 pounds.

[cramer]

Stan's hubs can be converted. they make a conversion kit, which I think only costs about $15.

most other hub brands cannot be converted. My suggestion is that if you're riding XC and not doing any big drops (and especially if you're just riding a hard tail on Michigan trails), stick to a fork with QR and upgrade both front and back to thru axle the next time you buy a new bike.

Why suggest sticking with qr?

I prefer thru axle even on Xc bikes.

I've never had an issue with a QR. What does a thru-axle buy me? Is it cheaper? Is it lighter? Is it easier to remove/replace the wheel?

My TI 15mm and QR axles weigh virtually the same. Its not rotating mass so the 5-10grams your saving isn't much compared to the benefits you get from a TA. I'm about 175 pounds and notice huge difference from thru axle to qr bikes regarding handling and flex.

Also thru axles are threaded so there is really no way to but your wheel on *beep* to one side or another like you can do with qr. I use 15mm Thru axles and my bike weighs in 21 pounds. My other bike has thru front and back with 5 inches of travel and weighs in at 25 pounds.

I don't think mine saves me any weight either but I can see how it could if they wanted it to. It's not just the weight of the thru axle vs. a quick release lever that you would compare, it's all part of a system. The thru axle increases the strength and stiffness of the fork so to me, a fork manufacturer could either use that additional strength to make it stiffer and stronger (which is what I suspect Fox did with my fork) OR it could be used to shave material from the fork itself making it lighter compared to a QR fork of the same strength / stiffness. Either way, it's superior compared to QR. I also think with a suspension fork if you keep things more solid with a thru axle, it allows the fork travel to be more smooth.

I was able to convert my American Classic wheels to work with the thru axle, I think it was $30. I didn't notice any difference in stiffness compared to my old fork but my old fork was a heavy (Surly) rigid steel 26" fork so it was already pretty stiff. Just looking at it, it seems a better system overall to me though.

[Scotty]

I've never had an issue with a QR. What does a thru-axle buy me? Is it cheaper? Is it lighter? Is it easier to remove/replace the wheel?

Not cheaper

Not Lighter (actually noticeably heavier)

The difference is that it makes for a much stiffer, stronger interface between the hub axle and frame/fork.

[Scotty]

Stan's hubs can be converted. they make a conversion kit, which I think only costs about $15.

most other hub brands cannot be converted. My suggestion is that if you're riding XC and not doing any big drops (and especially if you're just riding a hard tail on Michigan trails), stick to a fork with QR and upgrade both front and back to thru axle the next time you buy a new bike.

Why suggest sticking with qr?

I prefer thru axle even on Xc bikes.

why only upgrade the front of your bike?

It makes as much difference in the rear. In fact, one could argue that it's more likely that you'd pull a rear wheel out of your drops before you would the front wheel. Of course, you can't upgrade the rear wheel without upgrading the frame.

I've always been of the opinion that for both value and ride quality, it always makes more sense to upgrade to new standards in whole, not ad hoc. If your fork is low quality, what about your wheels, frame, drivetrain, etc. The money you put into upgrading one component won't come back to you when you sell the bike some day.

Another example...if you're riding a bike with a 1 1/8th head tube and you want to go to a Thru Axle, why bother? Half the stiffness difference in the new forks is from the oversized headtubes on new frames and the tapered steerer tubes on the Forks.

how do you transport your bike? do you use a standard fork mount rack? If you go to a Thru Axle you can't use that rack anymore as it is. you'll have to buy an adaptor, or a whole new tray.

over the years I've seen many people pour money into bikes to "upgrade", when in the end it would have been cheaper for them to ride their bike another year or two and then upgrade the whole bike..

just advice. to each his own.

[mtbfree]

why only upgrade the front of your bike?

It makes as much difference in the rear. In fact, one could argue that it's more likely that you'd pull a rear wheel out of your drops before you would the front wheel. Of course, you can't upgrade the rear wheel without upgrading the frame.

The OP didn't specify whether he has a hard-tail or full suspension bike. Having a rear thru-axle on a hard-tail makes little to no difference in stiffness or ride quality, whereas it makes a noticeable difference on a full suspension bike. Hard-tails are already stiff enough as it is... same with rigid forks. There's no need for a thru-axle when there's no linkage or sliding interface to increase play or flex in the first place.